Shoulder length sling climbing reddit trad height As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Review: The quality of the work was of course, great. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. But not "shelf life' i. 9 in trad? I am comfortable with most… Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. You’ll want six to 12 cams for a basic rack. The spirts makes it really easy and fast to change out dogbones, unlike those pesky hotwire draws. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. ” This is a generic term that you’ll often read in guidebook/topo descriptions. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. e. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. I always rack a few slings like Beth (although I like to have the cams on my gearloops, not over my shoulder like that) but not every placement comes somewhere you can take a sling off your shoulder, and I like the flexibility of having alpine draws that can go on any piece of gear rather than just a cam. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice 28 votes, 48 comments. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. it's dangerous. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. Anyone have personal experience and advice in what you did to prepare for tackling 5. Pretty light and plenty of length. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. There are other cams that people may like better for whatever reason, but BD is a solid first investment. Have a mix of shoulder-length (60cm) and double-length (120cm) slings in your kit. Learning to use the rope for your anchors was the biggest leap I made in trad climbing. The basic beginner trad rack is Black Diamond C4s . What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Really depends on the scenario. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. 10- pitch, a shoulder-length sling on his harness caught on a small dinner plate of rock and dislodged the small blade. Feb 23, 2022 · 10 shoulder-length slings; 1 double-sided gear sling; 3 double-length slings; 1 60m x 10. However, they can also be solid gate carabiners. Maybe after 3 years IN USE. Recently started climbing some easy trad routes - I’ve noticed that when belaying from the ground, the first piece is liable to getting pulled around a bit and shifting position as the belayer moves around. Posted by u/gratefullyhuman - 49 votes and 52 comments Some thoughts… • The rock on the right looks like it might crumble. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. stored and not used. -double length sling. There are lots of wandering routes there. And yes we are scared of falling. They break at about 8kn on average after 3years. Reply 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. This gets you a "minimal single rack". Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. For more trad climbing skills, check out our Intro to Trad course by guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin at Climbing’s LEARN online course series. 3-3+10ish slings) the weight of the harness makes it slide down my body since my hips aren't prominent enough to keep it up. As others have said. In addition to my harness, protection, quickdraws, and shoulder-length slings, here’s what I typically carry on most multi-pitch climbs, giving me the tools to deal with most situations that might arise: Small knife or multi-tool. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. Sewn draws are ok for sport but I find their extra stiffness a drawback with trad gear, in addition to their reduced versatility. Black Diamond is the gold standard for cams. More if the route wanders. Also take all your 60cm slings also known as "double length slings" and make alpine draws with them and bring those in lieu of regular draws. 5 can vary from 0. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. 0. It will be harder to equalize the anchor if the bolts are at different heights. Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. eg. Also a length of tat to bail or make a crazy rats nest anchor. daisy chains (2 per person) aiders (6 per team of two) ascenders (2 per person) fifi hook; helmet; comfy, well-padded harness with detachable leg loops The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Any popular trad route will typically either have: An anchor at the top of the route off which to rap down A dedicated rappel anchor (or multiple anchors for a multi pitch rappel) that serves multiple routes I've got a metolious 4 loop gear sling for my trad stuff, and an old shoulder length nylon runner for my draws, lockers, and belay devices. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. g. Review: Awesome service! Also the cheapest--$3/re-sling plus they inspect and lube your cams as well! 2. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. Anchor Options. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. In most cases, the non-locking carabiners are wire gate carabiners. This will be her first outdoor climbing experience. I use a sling in general since if I'm climbing with a standard Yosemite rack (nuts+doubles . Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. 240cm is plenty of I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. See full list on outdoorgearlab. No sling on thumb loop action here. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 6 cm) or, 20" (50 Apr 10, 2020 · All mine are made with a tripled shoulder-length slings (alpine draws?) I usually carry 12 for multipitch climbs. 5 to #3. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. if the longest pitch is 40m bring 10. Personal preference, I guess. 1). Yeah, this is probably the best way. Slings are important to help negate rope drag and gear security. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. the knot might snag. 6 million pounds. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Lengths: 12" (25. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. 10 - 12 quickdraws or alpine 'draws: Most trad climbers use alpine 'draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. 11b/c for sport and TR 5. If you don't need both your hands free then a hand strap (I use the Peak Design Clutch) can take the load off. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. In the second example, the total rope length above the bolt below is d1 lengths longer than the rope in the first example because the rope has to come back down to the climber once it has reached the height d0 (which is the same in both examples), but since the climber also falls from d1 lengths lower than in the first example, the two cancel 55 votes, 93 comments. Aug 24, 2016 · Three-quarters of the way up the peak, while leading the first ascent of a 5. Reply reply Nov 27, 2017 · Coppolillo recommends carrying different-length slings in trad areas, like those at Red Rock near Las Vegas, where the routes can wander. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. Anywhere from 2 to 6 double length alpine draws. Anything I should watch out for? I asked my buddy who is an older trad climber (been climbing for 30 years and climbed 5. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Dec 15, 2023 · Cams. 4 or . of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Seems to work pretty well for me. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. ukrtfi zbilp mig ipku onna fqddf dmd lzc edrwi brbvx sfoa aqnmhs ylgek lct uksf