Trad climbing sling lengths reddit.

Trad climbing sling lengths reddit girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). On the down this is used to extend my rappel. On the up, it can be used to extend. IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. 4 cm), 16" (40. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Sep 25, 2020 · What length is best? Slings tend to come in lengths of 30cm, 60cm, 120cm, 240cm, and even 480cm long. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. 7mm is fine. Having said that, even a girth hitch only reduces the strength of the sling by ~50% so your sling will still be pretty strong. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. Overhand+clip both ends. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. The appropriate length of webbing can vary based on the specific routes you're climbing, the nature of the anchors, and your personal preferences. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. They are heavy, but burly. All that being said, since many people use cord to resling their old nuts, cams, hexes I would do some research, but you will be fine. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. I have a bunch of quick draws that I can repurpose as alpine draws using runners. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add not a great idea. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Get a handful of alpine draws for trad climbing to supplement your quickdraws, get more when you start climbing mountains. ] Thanks for any responses, EDIT: Thanks for all your input guys. Depending on your comfort level, you could probably teach yourself pretty well if you bought 2 6ft lengths of webbing, 2 10ft lengths, and 4 lockers. Learning to use the rope for your anchors was the biggest leap I made in trad climbing. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. Moved Permanently. Also a length of tat to bail or make a crazy rats nest anchor. Dogbones aren't long enough to extend from your placements when trad climbing. It is sold by the foot or in segments: 20- or 30-foot segments are typical spans. I have a question about different carabiner types (wiregate, regular snap gates and the linked snap gate on the rope end of a sport quickdraw). I agree with the others, if you are only going to buy one sling for now, 120cm nylon is the way. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. If multipitch or belaying from above I would use two pieces and a sling just for speed to get my belayer climbing quicker but to each their own on 2 vs 3 pieces. I'm a wuss with nerve injury, I sew shit up, so even on a 100' pitch I'll have 10 draws on me. Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. This gets you a "minimal single rack". What I carry when ice climbing, cragging, multpitch climbing, trad climbing, etc are all different. If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. Carrying the right length of webbing for emergency bails and rappels during multi-pitch trad climbing is important for your safety and flexibility in dealing with unexpected situations. 9 range and climb a few mixed routes if possible. I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. Whether one uses the climbing rope itself or a dedicated length of cord is a personal choice and also depends on the circumstances. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. This is an adventure-biking sub dedicated to the vast world that exists between ultralight road racing and technical singletrack. I, personally, LOVE using a cordalette (or triple length sling). Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Agreed on weight, though. -Prussik cord with a locker. Lengths: 12" (25. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. 7 to 5. the knot might snag. 3 :) No extendable sling :( WC Zero Friends: When I first started trad climbing, I used a shoulder gear loop but never really liked it. Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. It depends on the situation. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb Cams, Nuts, Hexes is an expensive road that never really ends. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. The benefits of a clean nose carabiner really make a difference on bolts. On here sits all the extra stuff. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Stick the sling round and clip both ends (aka basket hitch). If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. . They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Need to sling a tree Really depends on the scenario. offsets nuts are really nice to have Great if you need to leave a whole cordalette’s worth of material behind on a climb. On double ropes it's more common to use quickdraws, but even then the requirements for the ideal draw are somewhat different. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. Before I ever led trad I had already "french freed" (plug in a cam and use it as a hand hold) my way through the crux of 9+ that was over my head after climbing all of 4 months. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. As others have said. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. It does mean you are limited to full-length extension or direct clipping unless you fiddle around. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. That said , there is usualy degradation in ropes, especially with how well the watherproofing works, so usualy the ropes have a lifecycle starting with ice climbing, then alpine climbing, then trad climbing, then as slings (used for ice, or saxonian climbing). There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… That doesn’t leave any left for the actual climbing. Dyneema for lightness. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . See full list on rei. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Get alpine draws btw, and you'll always need more slings than you think you do. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. I'd recommend sport climbing outside for a few seasons before you consider getting into trad climbing, its a whole other conversation in itself. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. I like my BD runners better, but thats personal preference. Extra long extension or anchors. I would not use a dynamically equalizing system in a belay. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. A 240cm is huge but can get you out of some stupid shit. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. Review: The quality of the work was of course, great. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. I suppose clipping a sport draw might be marginally faster than clipping an alpine draw (since the rope end of the alpine draw is sometimes cocked around at a funny angle), but it's more than made up for by the versatility of the alpine draw. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. It's doubled around my waist so there's a bight and two ends. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Every climber should learn the one-handed clove hitch. I bought a set, but decided to sell them again, because it is a lot of extra weight to carry them in many sizes. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. for multipitch or single pitch trad climbing i use a clove. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ If you are going to be doing a few routes that are non-linear, throw in a few trad so you can extend them to reduce rope drag (but take longer falls!). Which I do see myself headed into. I would not recommend buying dogbones if you are going to be climbing trad in the near future. This is my preferred method. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. Americans typically use "alpine draws" - extendable with 60 cm slings - because they mostly trad climb on single ropes and need lots of extension to manage drag, gear lifting out etc. Don't worry about it at all. are all fair game here. Jul 5, 2020 · 8mm slings with one biner each (I don’t do trad draws because my cams all have racking biners) I twist rack most of them. In general you will find the 60cm and 120cm slings to be the most common and widely used lengths. For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. Reply The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. As long as the alpine draws are neat and the same length, you should have no problem with them tangling. The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. I wouldn't recommend girth hitching slings to the thumb loop. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). if the longest pitch is 40m bring 10. The document has moved here. That'll let you tie 2 single length runners and 2 double length, and you'll be able to untie them to get them around tree trunks or whatever. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. (Like 1/2lb). As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. g. My goal is to stay in the 5. I also use the slings for trad anchors but most people aren't into building trad anchors with slings, so they might be single purpose for you. Some opinions about this would be great. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Keep slack out of your static anchors. The spirts makes it really easy and fast to change out dogbones, unlike those pesky hotwire draws. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. For cams and tricams, I keep a defined carabiner on each piece that I clip- if they need to be extended, I carry my single length slings with one biner on them- use the biner already on the cam to clip the sling and use the biner already on the sling to clip the rope Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. It would also eat up real estate on belt loops, making shoulder slings for gear more necessary. Gumby rack follow up Looking for recommendations. A simplified version of the cordelette is commonly used on two bolts. 4-4, with . The contact slings cost more and aren’t as durable as slings made from flat webbing. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. In eastern europe 50m is often enough, but 60 is a safe bet. Apr 3, 2025 · The slings should not be frayed, discolored, or torn, and the sewing should be 100% intact. com Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. I would get 6x sling draws, cheapest and lightest you can find, 6x wiregate quickdraws, lightest and cheapest you can find, and 6x sport quickdraws with beefy dogbones and solid Extend, extend, extend some more. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. 3 z4s. I use a double overhand based on an a certified alpine guide a took a course with, but I recommend starting out with a double-fisherman to tie them together (sometimes I use a triple depending on my state of mind, and the founder of Bluewater ropes tells me he always recommends a triple for The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. When I started leading I had the same fears, I did the "ghetto" aid with nylon slings also. The difference between 12 and 18 cms draws is basically psychological. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. set of nuts. I'm making this post because I climb at a crag where climbing on other peoples' anchors is commonplace, but there are a lot of inexperienced climbers and sketchy anchors. This is an excellent choice for simple multipitch anchors, as it gives a defined masterpoint for working off of, as well as a shelf. Eg Yosemite. Yes, a dry coated rope is necessary if you climb primarily sea cliffs. Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. Get them in multiples of 60cm length, and it's nice if all your slings of 1 size are the same color. -quad length sling. In general for trad, I wouldn't have: Hexes. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. Basically you want to avoid knots where possible, they have a big effect on the strength of the sling. Now I have 8 extendable. Get a 20ft length and then pick any of the acceptable knots to tie the two ends together. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. My perspective on all of this is as someone who focuses on alpine climbing and long trad routes. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. 0 mm runners. Black Diamond # of Cams: 34 Length of service: 1 month Recommend? No. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). it depends on where you're climbing. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. Being doubled gives me plenty of length for Prusiks, load releasable knots, etc. These dimensions are the measure of the sewn loop. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. I say start with 4 and add some if you need it. That gives me a dozen slings of various lengths. The more of a crack climb it is, the less extension you need as you can just clip straight into the cams. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. 3 to 3, DMM wallnuts #1-11, and 8 60cm slings and 2 120cm slings. I attach my chalk bag with an untied length of 6-7mm cord. I’m thinking of a set of Black Diamond C4 cams from . Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 17 comments Well, as always, what you need depends on what the rock is like where you are climbing. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Plus, then you would need to buy two sets of slings (dog bones + slings) if you were serious about trad climbing. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. on the topic of PAS’s. Uneven leg lengths should be adjusted using as much low-stretch material as possible, a doubled or tripled Spectra/Dyneema sling being fairly low stretch I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Review: Awesome service! Also the cheapest--$3/re-sling plus they inspect and lube your cams as well! 2. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle I’m building my first trad rack for climbing within a couple hours of the Seattle area, mostly at Index and Leavenworth, Vantage in the winter. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. Consider replacing older slings. More if the route wanders. Another option would be to use 2 120cm slings or a whole loop of old-ish climbing rope. If multipitch, those are high profile pieces that I would want on my rack and not wasted on the anchor. When I’m alpine climbing, I will bring 0-2 quickdraws and the rest alpine draws, including some double lengths. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. But it's still easy to F things up if you don't know what you're doing. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. 9). Find really long draws can sometimes twist or lay funny on the rock, which can be frustrating clipping sport climbing. Girth hitch. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. I heeded the advice and got more slings and doubles as I’ll be heading to Red Rocks. At belays, clipping in with the rope is simpler and safer. Length of service: few weeks Recommend? Definitely. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Whenever you climb a route, try to evaluate how you can improve. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. I’ve got a bunch of short draws for sport climbing but I’m getting into mountaineering and trad climbing, and it seems like wiregates are in use more for this stuff. The FB-Sling friction knot is my goto if I have to use a sling for a friction knot. Pretty light and plenty of length. 6 cm) or, 20" (50 Apr 10, 2020 · I do like having 12cm though as I prefer them for sport climbing and don't have two sets of draws. This is good for maybe 70% of climbs I do on granite. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. 6 million pounds. Posted by u/Resident-Biscotti366 - 2 votes and no comments Cord is helpful for producing custom-length slings, like a cordelette, that may be utilised in anchor structure or in friction hitches for rappels and help climbing. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Another alpine draw only person chiming in: sport draws are reserved exclusively for sport climbing on my rack. Most alpine climbing you'd be doing shouldn't take more than a set of cams and a set of nuts unless you're doing big alpine rock routes like those in the Sierras. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. I now rack most everything on my harness. Clip each bolt, clip sling to bolts, equalize, and tie off. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. I haven't used really expensive ones like the Spirits or the BD Livewire and don't really feel like I'm missing anything. That said, my ATC, prussik, double length sling and a couple of lockers pretty much never leave my harness. It'll open your eyes as to where to place gear and you'll be safe while you're stuffing around trying to find the right sized gear, right Sling lengths or draws to keep your line straight etc. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems I tend to use 8. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. There's no hard rule for sling age, but i replace anything that looks worn or older than 10 years. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. You can sometimes find packs of thicker nylon 10 or 12 cm long slings for very little, so perhaps treat yourself to five in the future, but really having all 18 cms ones won't really make any real difference. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. So a 60cm sling is made from a 120cm piece of webbing that has had its ends sewn together. Additionally, I have seen some say that prusiks should be 5-6' in length and other say you should always have at least one prusik that is 10-11' in length. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. They are designed to be carried on your harness gear loops just like a normal quickdraw, which gives you quick and easy access to shoulder length slings. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Adjama Is my go to as well. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. I never REALLY trusted my gear until I started falling on it. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. With a 20' cordelette anchor, thats a lot of distance to displace force. All-road, crossover, gravel, monster-cross, road-plus, supple tires, steel frames, vintage bikes, hybrids, commuting, bike touring, bikepacking, fatbiking, single-speeds, fixies, Frankenbikes with ragbag parts and specs, etc. If you extend a piece four Aug 18, 2019 · The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. Mtnoutlet. That is when you start to get into some bigger numbers, but if cared for properly, Trad gear should last you many seasons. When I’m cragging, I will carry about 4-6 quickdraws and 6-8 alpine draws to extend placements. Instead of a cordellette, a 48" sling (double-shoulder length) simplifies the process. PAS are handy, but i feel that that are so bulky and cluttered for the amount of use you get out of it. Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters Posted by u/disforderp - 3 votes and 25 comments Jun 11, 2014 · In reply to PPP: You'll be absolutely fine. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. Some people throw slings over their shoulder with one biner each to avoid the extras. Most of my cams are used. Also take all your 60cm slings also known as "double length slings" and make alpine draws with them and bring those in lieu of regular draws. 5x the single line rated load. I find myself extending many more placement on alpine climbs. 2 60cm, 6 120 cm, 2 240cm. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. I use both lengths. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Posted by u/o___o__o___o - No votes and 12 comments Admittedly, we're talking about sport climbing, so there's MUCH less to master compared to multipitch trad. If the metal parts look good, they are good. The clipping feel is incredible. I usually bring 3 120s, extension is your friend in easy terrain, rope drag is your enemy. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. Cams (Black Diamond 0. Small cams and nuts front left, big cams front right, quickdraws back left, belay device and anchor gear back right, shoulder length slings with a single biner each over the shoulder. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). Used cam red flags: Frayed wires or slings, bent stems, cracked or gouged cam lobes I've been trawling the internet for reviews and tests and most I could find were on OutdoorGearLab and UK Climbing Forums from some years ago. Maybe read a book - I think there's one called "Clip and Go". You can easily store this system on your harness. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Available in three lengths and with color coded slings; these long draws are made up of two Bravo carabiners joined by an 11 mm Monster Sling. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. So long as the original owner hasn’t removed the manufacturer’s label, you can check the date sewn into the small label on the sling to know exactly how old the cam is. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Yeah, this is probably the best way. Seems to cover nearly all bases. Make sure to get a few longer draws to help combat rope drag. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. If you just need to leave one or two slings for a rap anchor you end up with an off-length and not particularly useful cordalette so then you are buying a whole new cordalette which costs more that two toed tape slings. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. Understand that trad climbing is a continuous learning process. 5-3 C4 cam size. Imo they are too long for standard Alpine draws. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. eg. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. -double length sling. ) The only things I clip with a quick are wired nuts and hexes. Going to multi pitch course this year. All my primary alpine draws are 24" that are tripled up With one hand I can easily extend the sling full length. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. I use the two ends to tie a sheet bend in the bight. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). The 8. Think you'd be grand with 18cm draws and alpine draws for the majority of all trad climbing. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. May 18, 2021 · This is another area in which trad climbing requires compromises and good judgment, but luckily extension is intuitive once you get the hang of it. You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Got a single rack of c4s . 1-. It’s essential in mountaineering, and very quick for the type of personal anchors that create that unique anchor-loading situation. If you have a climbing partner that already knows how to lead trad and you trust him/her, having that person check your gear placements and give you feedback will be very useful. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l [Before you question why I’ve chosen these two rope, I should mention that each quality (thickness, dry coating, length etc) was chosen for a reason based on the climbing I do and my location. If you are constantly climbing 70+ meter pitches, either you are super badass and you don't need advice or you are climbing something so moderate you could probably just simul the few feet. Climbing hard pitches over 70m in length is silly because you end up with so much drag or gear you have to place. If you plan to transition into trad climbing quickly with friends and cost is an issue then the trad draw rack might make sense if your willing to deal with a few fumbling clips. The bartack isn’t a matter of detail; it’s low profile because it’s made from tubular webbing tucked into itself to close the loop, whereas you cannot get around a bulky overlap with the flat webbing used on the BD slings. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. That said: the purcell prusik is significantly bulkier than a sling, and it's only use is for clipping in on rappels. Once you are confident with your placements and the spacing between them, attempt the climb with the gear pre-placed - essentially a sport route. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. 0 and 18. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . ygze dcm pqdmodx iyorzz dtsgj lrrsn rdhgad dkov kpewlhq knti sjx cihvg iuuusxv oqxkp lccnk