Sling length for trad anchor reddit.

Sling length for trad anchor reddit If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. 15 votes, 38 comments. Metal on metal is NOT a problem to worry about too much. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. I use both. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Aug 18, 2019 · Double-Length — 60cm/24in. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. Build with a cordellette, with a cordellette that is wayyy too long so you must shorten it, with quad length sling, triple length sling, double length sling, multiple slings of different lengths, with the climbing rope. For trees close to the edge, you can use a couple of slings. This is assuming 2 bolts for the anchor. The slings used in alpine draws are 60 cm when fully extended. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). I'd also use two longer quickdraws for when I dont have said double. Sep 21, 2018 · Because most people aren’t willing or able to objectively test these out for themselves to see what their true level of safety (or lack thereof) is, if a nylon cord is used I’d strongly recommend using 7mm for anchor construction, and if the weight and bulk is a significant problem using a Contact sling with a 22kn breaking strength Double length slings. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Super quick to adjust to your desired length for the belay and when you're taking apart the anchor you just slide the clove off, throw your anchor on your harness and get going. Should be OK ? Using 2 slings would give you 66kN anchor if slings are paralleled. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Something between 30 and 60 ft. If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. What I carry when ice climbing, cragging, multpitch climbing, trad climbing, etc are all different. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. Great if you need to leave a whole cordalette’s worth of material behind on a climb. Get 20-30' of climbing spec 7mm static line and you then tie the thing into a loop with a It depends on the situation. The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. 10 - 12cm slings: These short-length slings work in most situations when the route is relatively straight. 1 short, 13 medium, 4 long. 5 meter rope tether. 5-6 meters) of webbing can provide you with versatility in constructing anchors. Agreed on weight, though. An eighth of an inch more or less is not ideal. Pretty light and plenty of length. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. The rope will be dynamic enough to protect the climber’s pieces in a fall in most cases and by staying close to the anchor and somewhat pre loaded on the upward piece you reduce shock load to the anchor which is the last thing protecting you if all the leader’s pieces fail. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. That said, my ATC, prussik, double length sling and a couple of lockers pretty much never leave my harness. I’ve also been to locations where slung trees are the norm. Use pieces close together, use pieces far That'll let you tie 2 single length runners and 2 double length, and you'll be able to untie them to get them around tree trunks or whatever. 17 - 18cm slings: These medium-length slings are useful for reducing rope drag, especially when the route is more than 12 quickdraws long or if the rope is not traveling in a straight path. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. With the ‘biners pulled in opposite directions, the result is a tripled sling about the length of a conventional quickdraw. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. Or just long slings. Gear placements are sometimes obvious and close together, and sometimes not so obvious and far apart. Yeah, I'd much rather build an anchor with a rope than have to carry enough long slings to be able to equalise a 3 or 4 point Trad anchor in most places. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. I recommend reading through the entire book because there is really good info / tips / tricks that you'll find useful. Be sure to inspect the slings before using and weight test them before taking down your anchor. 1. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I personally use 1. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. These dimensions are the measure of the sewn loop. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. Seems like those… Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Nwslackline. -quad length sling. As others have said. Second the majority of our trad climbs are single pitch that you can top out on (which feeds from point 1 - people second/follow trad rather than TRing it). Extra long extension or anchors. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. Oct 29, 2023 · Length: I would go with 240cm sling or cord. Just use your quad wherever you would otherwise be building a sliding x. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. And yes we are scared of falling. But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Many trad climbers take along extra segments of webbing to make custom-length slings for building or extending a anchor. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. This setup worked well for single pitch sport The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Lighter, usually tied as a quad for bolted belays, still good for a 3 piece + overhand knot anchor. Reply reply Additionally, the length should allow you to extend the rappel anchor away from any potential rope drag or hazards. All UIAA/EN rated slings are rated to handle 22kN of force, making them plenty strong, even when we hitch or knot them (which typically reduces their I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. As a general guideline, having at least 15-20 feet (4. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. If you're just I prefer to be close to the anchor and make the upward pull piece taught with one of your bomber pieces. Cleaning: no difference. See "Doubled Sling with Master Point" on page 8 here (pdf warning): Posted by u/2N654Tog - 3 votes and 31 comments The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. Just know the trade-offs: you trap yourself in the system and make self-rescue a bit more complex. The document has moved here. On the up, it can be used to extend. 8mm rope is a must for these anchors to get enough length and get the angle of anchor points smaller. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. if you are climbing a trad route then the norm (at least in the UK) is: a single screw-gate on each piece of gear, equalised either with a long sling passed through each piece and knotted (overhand) to form a master point. Flexibility is key. Something I found helpful while learning trad was climbing sport routes… If you place a piece of gear a foot or two above a bolt and then take a whip on it, you'll see how well you did with your placement. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. All that being said, since many people use cord to resling their old nuts, cams, hexes I would do some research, but you will be fine. Clearly here, the whole anchor is so fucking shit that the way the carabiners are facing is the least of my concern. . 2 extra trad draws for nuts. For those interested: For _fixed_ top anchors, different types of metal will, over time, erode the anchor and cause it to break whilst it looks 100% fine. Compare this to bolt hangers (25 kN) or chains (30kN) and you can start to see why it’s fine to set a 2-piece anchor on bolts but using 2 pieces on pro is not recommended - regardless of how well they are rigged 2 trad pieces will be weaker than bolts. Hi, I just got my first trad rack! Woot! I have been practicing anchors on the ground and would love some feedback. That anchor works well because of bolt placement. In normal trad areas I don’t take the locking draw, as many slings, or as many free biners. Then look up SERENE/ERNEST, "triaxial loading", and "opposite and opposed gates". Left: Unequalized anchor. IF you climb above your anchor while attached to the anchor via your PAS and you fall, that is a fall factor greater than 1, possibly up to 2, depending on how far above the anchor you climb relative to the length of your PAS. May 18, 2021 · Clip both carabiners to your sling; Pass one carabiner through the other; Clip the passed-through ‘biner onto both strands of the sling; And that’s it. Basket hitch the combined slings around the tree, bring the ends together and tie an overhand loop. Cams (Black Diamond 0. 2 long ones if needed to keep the rope straight, 2 long ones for the anchor. Bulkier than 5. When I made this same exact decision, I went with a 240cm dyneema sling. The key here is to understand what makes a good placement / anchor. It’s true. Now, there are whole books on anchor building and plenty of situations where a full understanding of everything might help. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Save those colored biners for your 31 votes, 45 comments. single HMS on the master point to attach yourself to (clove hitch from your rope attached to your harness) and either belay off your rope loop You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. rope (or sling) in service. If I'm at a trad anchor it's a backup to my rope clove hitched into the master point and it can extend longer instantly by choosing which loop I want to clip into, where as you'd have to either remove one sling and connect it to the other and tie a knot to get the length you want, or remember ahead of time to use a longer sling for your tether The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. This anchor is fine. On the way down I use a double length sling with an overhand tied somewhere below middle using the extended rappel/personal anchor combo. I carry 8 Black Diamond Dynex shoulder length slings with one Camp Nano carabiner attached to each that I carry over my shoulder. 305 votes, 96 comments. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. Meandering routes require more alpine draws and double-length slings while direct routes require fewer. The home of Climbing on reddit. There is more like a sweet spot for each person. It can be racked in just the same way. Nov 18, 2016 · It’s best as the lowest piece in the anchor. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. Keep in mind that the PAS and dynex slings you mentioned are made out of material that has very little to no stretch. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. In a fall, most of the force on this anchor would impact the piece in the upper left. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. What you're doing is fine. The length of tethers varies. It's a static line and will either break or wreck your back if you take a fall on it like that. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. Sep 4, 2011 · For cleaning sport/fixed anchors or staging single or multi-pitch raps I clip into the anchor with 1 or 2 slings or a personal anchor girth hitched to my harness. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. IMHO, better to carry a couple of double runners (120cm length). If you just need to leave one or two slings for a rap anchor you end up with an off-length and not particularly useful cordalette so then you are buying a whole new cordalette which costs more that two toed tape slings. And have never once selected one to put on a bolt because it was 2” longer or shorter. So quads for TR anchors aren't needed. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. If you accidentally shock load this gear (factor 1 fall), the adjust has the stretch to not wreck you whereas you will generate a great deal of impact force using the PAS. The personal anchor just waiting for a factor 2 fall is the real sketch. Belay and personal safety gear. Aug 16, 2021 · You will need a sling for every pair of anchor pieces, so a three point anchor will require two slings. Strop hitch instead of girth hitch to get the length you need. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. For most of my alpine draws I use the standard 60cm slings (single length slings), and I also often carry one or two 120 cm slings for when I'm trying to reduce rope drag from a placement that creates an angle in the rope. 95% of the time there are ways to not leave anything. For trad anchors you have to be more flexible. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Step 2 Equalize them together with slings, cordelettes or a section of static rope to create a central point which fulfils the criteria in the anchor check list. The PAS is a little more versatile in that the length is so much easier to get right. Right: Equalize it. But I often have a spare 60cm sling or two on the back of my harness to use as protection but I can extend things with them if needed. It’s hard to do that with a single rack of cams! Assorted: I use 240cm slings these days instead of chord for anchors. Use the same gear placements or better yet different ones every time. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. Go back to rei and find the climbing section where they cut rope to length. I bought 2 d shaped lockers for the bolts and 2 hms lockers for the rope side. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. Posted by u/jocram2 - 5 votes and 13 comments My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. A low-friction sling on good carabiners will create auto-equalization (I've seen it work just staring at the anchor). Reply reply Sep 25, 2020 · What length is best? Slings tend to come in lengths of 30cm, 60cm, 120cm, 240cm, and even 480cm long. Mar 21, 2017 · For a 240m length sling, 10mm would be less of a cluster than say a 13 or 14mm sling. Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. The only impact it has is making sure I have two of the same length for the anchor. Of course the same principles apply Beware the triangle of death, etc. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. Very versatile. ;-) There is no ideal length. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. It's much safer imo. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. Jan 11, 2021 · Over and over. Apr 11, 2023 · I want the design of the Mammut Alpine Trad Sling (which I love) but in a 60cm length: Tight loop on one end to hold the clipping biner steady Wide loop on the other hand - for easy girth hitch, easy clipping to a different biner, multiple biners, etc Jul 10, 2023 · 2. Nov 13, 2014 · If equalized properly you will have a maximum distribution of 11kN:11kN:11kN capability. Double-length slings (12 cm) can either be racked over the shoulder or clipped to a carabiner and then a gear loop. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. For sport I have 18 Spirit keylock QDs. Related: Learn This—Tricams 101; Illustration: Supercorn. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. For example, specialty tethers like the Petzl Connect Adjust or Metolius Personal Anchor System come in at about 38 inches (around 95 centimeters). Don't over-engineer it, on toprope you won't put a lot of stress on an anchor as you'll just be dangling or falling 1-2 m into a lot of rope. So you have a 33kN anchor supporting a 7kN force. Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. It could also break the sling, or the anchor. A typical leader fall is between 3-7kN. You can damage internal organs with just a 10kN force - falling onto a sling directly is likely to be much higher than this. The climb isn't over when you reach the top. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. 5 tech cord but more versatile. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. You should produce an anchor with at least two (preferably three) good pieces of gear. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. Cams on the front two gear loops, anchor gear and nuts back left, quick draws back right, slings with single carabiners over my shoulder. Length. The quad is one type of anchor, but it’s not the be-all-end-all anchor and you may find yourself in situations where it may not be suitable. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. What we don’t: Not the lightest or cheapest set-up. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. If the gear blows, the bolt is there for backup. If I need to I bring my trad quickdraws or alpine draws (really long or wandering Given a standard 60cm sling for a two-piece Sliding X, or a 120cm sling for a three-piece, what kind of additional force is generated, if any, on the anchor due to the extension in the system when one piece fails?. This anchor design can also be adapted to use premade quad anchor slings. Agreed. An anchor builder should always strive to build an anchor that will be loaded on-axis when the belayer or climber weights the anchor. I usually start with the knotted sling for one safety and then use the PAS to adjust to the right length for the other (in a two safety situation). Il servizio di Google, offerto senza costi, traduce all'istante parole, frasi e pagine web dall'italiano a più di 100 altre lingue e viceversa. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Better to have an anchor that's a little big than not have enough material. I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. This is the lightest setup I have found. Given the fact that the trees are solid and not just spindly bushes or already on the verge of dropping over, a sling around one stem and a locking carabiner should be all you need, make sure your rope does not drag over sharp edges. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. In general you will find the 60cm and 120cm slings to be the most common and widely used lengths. As a beginner, it’s tough to tell if the anchor is to climb on our not so I’d rather poll the community rather than decking on my first trad route! Here are pictures of the whole anchor and then close ups of the individual At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. Rope is allso much better to get masterpoint over the ledge. I either use the rope for anchors, or use a double runner plus the rope. You don't have to fall fifty feet For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. Jul 6, 2014 · Mine is the ideal length: 19. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. On multi-pitch trad, when swapping leads, I usually anchor with the rope. The other time I use auto-equalization is with two extremely small pieces in a trad anchor that I want to share the force equally (usually tiny brassies, or something similar). Personally I would rather use the back side of my clove to set this up instead of doing it between my tie-in and the anchor. As for the anchor you will need something to use as an anchor. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. Given, I climb trad/alpine/mixed whatever with 120s part of rack and 1x xtra 120 for anchor and cord (for leaving, anchors, and rescue). And slings that are racked independently or over the shoulder are usually 120 cm. com Jan 19, 2022 · For slings, I'd recommend a set of 4 alpine draws (dyneema type, 60mm length, 2 carabineers each), and either a 240mm dyneema sling for an anchor or similar length 6 or 7mm cord if you don't already have one. You will need a sling for every pair of anchor pieces, so a three point anchor will require two slings. The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. You still need to make an anchor to attach yourself and belay your partner from. Most climbers prefer to rack their gear on their harnesses, but there might be times when you’re short on racking space and a sling over your shoulder is the easiest solution. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. Carabiners Jan 12, 2023 · Many climbers, especially trad/ice/alpine climbers, already have slings for building anchors or extending protection, they are fairly inexpensive, and they come in many lengths and materials. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. Redundancy and load distribution are key! Most trad routes will have walk off’s or bolted anchors. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. So a 60cm sling is made from a 120cm piece of webbing that has had its ends sewn together. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. That means either bolted anchors, a tree that has a permanent cable or sling around it, or it’s a multi pitch with a walk off so the second will take the anchor gear every pitch and then hike back to the car. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. The results were quite shocking to me. How many you need of each will depend largely on the type of terrain you climb. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. Yea, sure, it works. If this piece popped, the other pieces would be shock-loaded, and the whole anchor could fail. That gives you a 33kN Anchor with redundancy. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. Another key element is direction of pull. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. -Prussik cord with a locker. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Off-axis The direction of pull on an anchor is off-axis when it is not straight on – that is when it doesn’t distribute a load equally to the primary anchors in a system. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). They are more versatile overall, and you can usually do most anchor rigging if needed with them. The paradox of a new trad leader is you likely want to stitch everything up. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. Ideally, I'd use a double length nylon for a top rope anchor, sliding X, with a masterpoint knot. 0 Flag Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. I recommend starting with the sections on nuts and cams, then moving onto anchor equalization. 625 feet. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. With a 20' cordelette anchor, thats a lot of distance to displace force. Also, following an experienced trad climber and inspecting their placements helps a bunch Step 1 Find enough good gear placements directly above the route to make an anchor, making sure they meet the requirements of the six point rule. Plus why the extra faff when 2 draws will make an anchor in a second? Never heard of a 2 draw anchor failing. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Read through the entire book in whichever order you like. Remember that fall factor is a ratio of fall distance vs. When leading in blocks, I usually use a cordelette rigged for no extension. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Honestly though, I eventually just reduced the amount of unnecessary gear and started carrying most my gear on my harness without a gear sling. Aug 16, 2021 · This is the classic self-equalizing anchor. the knot might snag. I'm making this post because I climb at a crag where climbing on other peoples' anchors is commonplace, but there are a lot of inexperienced climbers and sketchy anchors. Nylon webbing is cheap and easy to buy in bulk. I use the sliding-x with limiters for my top rope anchor, and I see a few benefits over the other options: given the same sling/cordellette length, it's twice as long as the quad, alleviate rope drag and crossing over ledges the twist makes it more redundant than a pure equalette, almost as much as a quad Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. What I learned today. edit: thanks for the downvotes, but that's not how the connect adjust is supposed to be used. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. Volume webbing is sold by the foot, either in spools or in segments. You can also make Yosemite slings out of them and carry them on your harness which would require 2 carabiners. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. I bought two different length of QuickDraw when I got started because I thought that was better. Jul 5, 2020 · Maybe no long slings. I also have multiple different slings with me anyway (Saxon Switzerland protection) and some spare biners on my harness. Quickdraws in this article range from dedicated sport climbing models to light and stripped-down versions for trad or alpine use. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. See full list on rei. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Jul 11, 2024 · Best uses: Alpine, trad climbing Weight: 80 g Length: 60 cm (sling length) What we like: More durable and versatile than other alpine draws on the market. Moved Permanently. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. If you’re going to be climbing trad, you might soon start to look at some easy multi pitches to tackle. If you fall when above an anchor (even if you are only a foot above), unusually large forces will be generated. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. Reply reply bfefcvfdsszss I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. You can easily store this system on your harness. You're good. Those are obviously only half the length of the 240s, but could be used to add another point to clip a couple feet below a Apr 14, 2021 · A few extra safety carabiners for your anchor are useful as well. It’s easier to flip out of the way in tight spaces. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. Some prefer to use half ropes when trad climbing because of the drag, but that’s also personal preference. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. depends what you are doing. -double length sling. Posted by u/GoSox2525 - 15 votes and 19 comments Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. There are two Kinds of webbing: Tubular webbing is your norm for scaling. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. Some are old and sketchy in which case you should add another sling. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. gpiy vlqfbce kfjdbz rkuqtv mqzum cjej hwab nwefd uvcx hgquf drub bvoh vtjeb esrwdv cpmlwih