Best hms carabiner reddit There have been four GriGri designs on the market: – Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Oriented the same way as off a belay loop. The hitch commonly refered to as the Munter Hitch, was named for Werner Munter, a Swiss mountain guide who popularized the hitchs' use throughout the seventies. For example, a You would be much better off buying two non-locker carabiners and using them opposed. But for a grigri, a small D-shaped carabiner is best. I love this device, it’s light, small, ergonomically designed and intuitive if you’ve used ATC before. And while it's best to have the belay or progress capture device on the small end, the crossbar makes it irrelevant. These are the two that come with the steel and the regular Megajul kit. 12K subscribers in the AzurLane community. Which is nice, in case you drop your Grigri and its carabiner. In any case, if you had to apply strong forces to your carabiners for something other than climbing, it’s best to retire them after use. It will help prevent the carabiner from rotating while shifting the load to the carabiner’s spine and not on the gate. The Faders HMS is a cold-forged large size HMS carabiner. You know you can use two regular ovals, opposite and opposed? Advantage is more friction when using skinny ropes. The Best Carabiner for Sport Climbing: EDELRID HMS Strike . This is my primary locking carabiner, which I use with belay devices, with munters (it is an HMS, designed to take munters readily, even on double ropes), and many other situations. This allows for ease if leading up to set up top rope for others or if a member wants to lead after top roping a number of times. Applications: HMS carabiners are perfect for trad anchor masterpoints and top rope masterpoints. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Fewer items, packed into a single bag for ease of transport to make traveling simpler with more focus on the experience than the logistics. I'm wondering it's… I use a Mammut Bionic Hms (just the bionic, not the mythos or mytholito) and it works pretty well and has held up pretty well with use with both a smart and smart alpine. When choosing a belay carabiner, here’s the key tips to remember: Your belay device will influence which shapes will work best. Now I just use a regular offset D carabiner for the grigri and use the edeldrid carabiner for tube-style belay devices. Is… Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. If you want to be flexible with your carabiner and use multiple belay devices, the Edelrid Strike and the BD Gridlock (which I found very fumbly) have similar function of keeping the carabiner nicely aligned. The "rhino horn" actually has a tendency to align the handle straight towards the clip, and the handle is the perfect length to engage through the clip and get stuck behind it. 1 auto-locking HMS carabiner for belaying; 2 HMS carabiners and 2 smaller locking carabiners for a top-rope anchor; 1 wire-gate carabiner to hold shoes or other gear on a harness; 1 auto-locking carabiner for a personal tether; Sport Climbing. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. If you are using the older GriGri with a fairly thin rope, we’d suggest the Petzl Freino to help add friction when lowering and rappelling. Nov 4, 2022 · A side note, I chose two HMS carabiners for the master point but one as screw gate and the other as an auto locker. I got the HMS Bruce steel carabiner to use with it too, since it was tearing up my aluminum belay 'biner. You can find a climbing quality carabiner on Amazon for under $15, but if you're just going to put keys on it, then you can find carabiners in the key section at Walmart or Target. 8 oz) package that still felt beefy enough for the big jobs like anchoring and belaying. I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. Apr 19, 2018 · The carabiners that came with my kestrel are quite snug when trying to hook it on my ropeman 1. Just started lead climbing and this was scary to say the least! First bolt about 4m above the ground, struggling to clip it in, finally get it, notice the carabiner is turned around, try to fix it, accidentally unclip the carabiner from the sling 😦 had to downclimb as my arms were weakening There was a post that went hot on Instagram from Capitol Fire training (I believe) about using locking carabiners. HMS carabiner. We recommend checking out one of the anti-crossloading, belay specific carabiners for this purpose. Simplifing set up is always nice and I dont like having 4 or 5 biners on my belay loop. The same horn that keeps it from crossloading makes it really easy for the grigri to fall off the carabiner when you're opening it, creating a higher risk of dropping your belay device. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. The Grivel Plume ultra-light body is combined here with an HMS shape, to help the use with ropes. Regular oval 3-way locking carabiners tend to be uncomfortable for my hand size, end with a lot of annoying fiddling when using lanyards up in the tree etc. Explore up to 11% Off. Edit: originally linked to 10 pack of carabiners for the joke, found a jewelry carabiner to replace it with It really depends what you're using the biners for. Fixe Hardware 10mm Dyneema Anchor Sling-240cm. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. if you do go with locking I'd HIGHLY recommend one you can still get off your belt one handed, so a twist lock or magnetic lock NOT a screw @Edelrid, you guys really should produce carabiners that actually suit your device. The Best Carabiner for Trad Climbing: Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock Sep 15, 2020 · First off here is what we think you should look for in the best belay carabiner: – HMS or Pear Shape – Best shape for a belay carabiner; Rounded top edge for smoother belaying and lowering; Has to lock – The locking mechanism is a personal choice; Doesn’t cross load – Important for safety; Versatility is a bonus; Don’t Need A Full I'm also a fan of the Smart HMS as it must be locked to use the crossbar. Safer because it does not accidentally open, faster because it does not require Everything you need to Know about Outdoor Gear - Reviewed by passionate outdoor enthusiasts. Posted by u/Riqz85 - 2 votes and 12 comments Not sure what your imagining but if youre thinking of clipping multiple biners to another biner, just know that carabiners aren't intended to be loaded in 3 directions at once and doing so could break the carabiner That one is strong enough, but most people like a larger HMS type locking carabiner - which is also easier to use with a Munter in a pinch. This friction interface makes both rappelling and lowering exceptionally smooth and predictable. We welcome posts about "new tool day", estate sale/car boot sale finds, "what is this" tool, advice about the best tool for a job, homemade tools, 3D printed accessories, toolbox/shop tours. com Sep 20, 2018 · So an “HMS” carabiner is, roughly, the “half clove hitch belay” carabiner, a large, locking pear-shaped carabiner, suitable for belaying with a Munter hitch. In my experience, the Rhino is a great belay carabiner for gym and single pitch, but I don't like using it with my grigri on multi-pitch. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. So, for example, an ordinary pair of pliers, an open end wrench or a butter knife would all be bulletproof in that a bullet would be unlikely to strike it due the the small area and the material is harder than lead. “We think the Black Diamond MiniWire is the best lightweight option out there. The right place to hold your hand varies slightly with the selected carabiner, but most true HMS carabiners do best when the load and brake strand are in a parallel plane. 0. Important Specs; 3. Luke Nov 16, 2016 · Best Applications. Camp photons are some of the best I’ve used. All you need is an HMS I know I won't die using an HMS style carabiner, but I don't want to wreck anybody's line. There's a pretty simpel reason for that: no climber in their right mind would ever consider buying one of those things without these norms. Experiment with any round stock HMS carabiners you have lying around. Everything else is in my boat (first aid kit + sam splint, pin kit with extra slings/webbing + pulleys and biners, throw rope, waterbottle, lots of snacks in a snackpouch which I strapped to the A carabiner through the belt loop on the sheath and then you can attach that knife to your backpack, fanny pack or anything else your heart desires (that a carabiner can clip to) 😉. The Simond carabiners and ropes ARE in fact properly CE and UIAA tested. I use an “average” size locking carabiner that’s actually rated, not a cheap gas station one. Oct 14, 2022 · Lastly, it’s always a good idea to try out different carabiners to see which ones work best for you! Which carabiner do I use for a sling? A HMS carabiner is suitable for a sling. My favorite (by far) autolockers are either the Petzl William or Am'D Ball lock. Two quickdraws I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. The problem I have with the Mega Jul is that it’s not the best, but it also doesn’t have any serious downsides. To climbers, this knot is also known as HMS, the abbreviation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning half clove hitch belay. Pros & Cons: an HMS carabiner is super strong and has a larger gate opening. I have one already and it's the worst. Ocun Condor HMS and Blackdiamond Gridlock are two available option in my local store. Welcome to the Rope Access subreddit! This is a subreddit so that those of us in the industry can share… Jul², HMS Strike FG Carabiner (recommended by Jul²-manual), 9. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Reply reply The D shape helps resist carabiner rotation. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing The Best Belay Carabiner. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. 2mm rope, one of the Smart's rails will slide into the groove and give enough Oct 12, 2023 · D carabiners were the second carabiner shape to exist commercially and their shape looked exactly like the letter D. You can attach the webbed sling to this. It seems like this is the best choice so far, But I'm concerned because the am'd carabiner is renowned for freezing shut. It's the best all in one brake assisted belay device I've used so far. Edelrid says not to worry about triaxial loading because your hips and squishy bits will deform before 5kN, and the loops will orient along the strong axis of the carabiner. Nov 19, 2015 · The biggest 'biner on test, but not necessarily the best. We liked it particularly as a belay locker that worked well both on the up and the down, and as a carabiner to use at multi pitch anchors since it has such a wide and capable basket. This technique when used with carabiners, calls for wide carabiners able to take two turns of rope, thus explaning the large pear-shape of the HMS carabiner. Nov 15, 2016 · Black Diamond recommends using an HMS carabiner, like the Black Diamond Gridlock, as they are larger and usually have a nice rounded top. All of these carabiners will work with all of the different versions of the device. I really like their Sentinel locking 'biner—it's one of the lightest HMS biners around, and it's still got a nice big gate opening. Working Carabiners 2 HMS locking Carabiners 1x to attach myself to the anchor via clove hitch, 1x if needed for scenarios like redirect lowering a climber on the GriGri/reverso, munter hitches, or rescue scenarios like MMO hitches, belay takeovers, or rappel ascension if I miss bolts (happened once, whoops). It’s tricky to lower smoothly, especially without belay gloves. if you are climbing a trad route then the norm (at least in the UK) is: a single screw-gate on each piece of gear, equalised either with a long sling passed through each piece and knotted (overhand) to form a master point. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Edelrid's own HMS Bruce Steel FG does fit very nicely. the black diamond Gridlock or mammut’s bionic crosslock carabiner) is your best bet. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. The innovation here is the ‘horn’ on the spine. I wouldn't recommend it for a grigri. Getting them off your belay loop and putting it on sucks time. In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. Compact and light HMS carabiner with Twin-Gate system (wire-wire). Big opening, great feeling action, bent gate to make clipping things easier, relatively cheap and super lightweight. Not a big fan of Black Diamond and I probably have about 50 black diamond carabiners. 6 m mammut slings my main belay device, edelrid megajull For example, you shouldn’t extend quickdraws by attaching two quickdraw together via the carabiners (carabiner-dogbone-carabiner, carabiner-dogbone-carabiner), the carabiners can twist into each other where the two gates overlap and they’ll unclip from each other - the carabiners haven’t broken or are physically compromised, but the Aug 31, 2021 · Note: If you’re looking for non-locking ‘biners, check out our guide to the best non-locking carabiners. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. If you’re using a tube style belay device, an HMS carabiner is usually the better option, preferably one with round stock or a steel in the basket for smoother feeding. It’s way cheaper than the other cross-load protecting carabiners, the lock mechanism is really smooth, and I love that the anti-cross load piece does not close of the screw gate isn’t locked so the quick extra step of closing that piece makes it easy to set up But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC. Moved Permanently. Don't buy a Hms Carabiner in the US before reading our rankings | BestProductsReviews. Trouble is buying online can be tricky and I've already bought something too small. r/onebag is an 'urban' travel community devoted to the idea of helping people lug around less crap; onebag travel. (Side note - belaying the second with a Munter hitch directly off the anchor might seem a little old-school, but it’s a very useful technique that every climber should know. The classic D shape is symmetrical and naturally sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like an oval). Edit: to clarify, if you took a knife and cut through the carabiner on the side opposite the gate, and then looked directly at where you cut, for a round stock biner you would see the metal is shaped like a circle. 4cm, the Rocklock Screwgate has one of the largest gate openings of the eleven locking carabiners reviewed. Long story short, I like the Edelrid Mega Jul with their HMS Bruce Steel FG carabiner and another non-locking carabiner that fits the nose of the device to lower on top belay and rappel. I’m using the double eye tether and my DMM oval carabiner is a bit to narrow to fit the hitch climber, rope wrench and my 10mm cord. Petzl Nano Aug 15, 2019 · Those just starting out only need one locking carabiner, for belaying. It compares it to a bunch of carabiners in the 30+ gram range and makes it sound like it is some uniquly light and amazing carabiner. the rest of my gear: mammut waist harness 4 William Ball Lock M36A BL - for multipurpose quick use (which i don't want to use for my other stuff, it's nice to have some free carabiners on hand to operate quickly) mamout quickdraw sets 3 self made extendable quickdraw sets made with the 0. Strength and Ratings Sep 27, 2024 · Easily compare & choose from the 10 best Hms Carabiner for you. 3. The Twin-Gate system is safer, faster and stronger than any other locking Compact and light HMS carabiner with Twin-Gate system (wire-wire) The Grivel Plume ultra-light body is combined here with an HMS shape, to help the use with ropes. If there's no special needs for the carabiner, I go with the Petzl Spirit locker because it's light and strong, but I wouldn't want to belay or rappel off that, or use it as a TR master point, or put a lot of strands through it in an anchor. So this goes mainly for harnesses, carabiners and ropes. HMS or pear-shaped carabiners are designed for use with belay and rappel devices. Jun 21, 2023 · 2. The Physic delivered solid HMS functionality in a welcome small, lightweight (2. The brand-new Azur Lane subreddit! With the correct name this time. depends what you are doing. It maintains a standard carabiner shape, so you can use it for other things too. Some refer to it as the “HMS” carabiner as it is also ideal for use with a Munter hitch. Suggested HMS: PETZL – William, Locking Carabiner D-shaped carabiners like the DMM Phantom Carabiner and DMM Chimera Carabiner offer a high strength-to-weight ratio because the load on the carabiner is offset close to the spine. Getting into the minutiae, an HMS carabiner is strongest towards the spine when open so its good practice to orient the heaviest load towards the spine if using an HMS carabiner for two loads (e. May 4, 2021 · Out of habit, many climbers always reach for a large, pear shaped, “HMS” belay carabiner anytime they are belaying. Important Specs; 5. I sometimes use a Loopo and belay from a big ole hms carabiner straight through the loops. It might not be the best for soloing but I've used it for that. (Yes, I probably have one more locker than I need, but Murphy's Law of rescues is you always need one more locking carabiner. Other than that, I know for a fact that the HMS Strike FG is too small to fit. com Germany Spain France Italy Netherlands Poland Portugal Sweden United States Brazil Japan Dec 22, 2016 · Compact HMS carabiner • H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight • Keylock closure mechanism for optimum handling when clipping and unclipping • Carabiner can move freely in all (belay/anchor) situations • Available with either screw, triple or slide lock They weigh considerably more but can handle industrial abuse. If you hold your hand out to the side or run a carabiner with a sharp kink by the spine, your rope will be a twisted mess. Petzl Djinn Bent Gate Non-Locking Carabiner: The Best for Sport It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. DMM makes great stuff. 6K subscribers in the ropeaccess community. . (In case you’re wondering what “HMS” means, it’s an acronym for the German, “Halbmastwurf sicherung”, which loosely translates as “Munter hitch belay” carabiner. If you want to for sure prevent crossloading, an 8-shaped carabiner (e. Compact and light HMS carabiner with Twin-Gate system (wire-wire) The Grivel Plume ultra-light body is combined here with an HMS shape, to help the use with ropes. I carry my keys on a camp brand wire gate and have never had any issues, but if you want a locking carabineer there are hundreds of good ones I'd personally stick with one made by a climbing company because they always seem to have better fit and finish. Pros: Large gate opening; Designed specifically for belaying and rappelling; Cons: Heavier and more expensive than most other shapes Hi Climbers, i have been climbing for about a year and now I feel like I have enough experience and psyche to spend some money on making a good sport… The Rhino is the best named carabiner on the list, in my opinion. The Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS stands up as a multiuse locking carabiner in a range of applications. The shape is actually weaker than a standard d shape. It is the ideal carabiner for the weight conscious mountaineer. Is there something better than a carabiner? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment You'll sometimes hear these called HMS carabiners, and some are even marked with HMS on the spine. Ok. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. com 10 Best hms carabiners of 2025 . Three-way lockers exist in many configurations. Posted by u/itsallthepush - 9 votes and 6 comments Hi i'm looking for a knew carabiner for my smart 2. Reply reply   The main benefit of smaller carabiners is how light they are. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. It’s important to mention that these kind of devices work best with dedicated belaying carabiner. Dive into free reviews & guides May 24, 2023 · Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Belay FG Eco locker. 10 to 15 quickdraws with one solid-gate carabiner and one bent-gate carabiner each; 1 auto-locking HMS The Force series Jake HMS Carabiner makes a superb belay/rappel carabiner because of its broad (and rounded) rope bearing surface. I quickly searched for those and realised that Blackdiamond has an old and a new version for this specific carabiner. A large amount of gate clearance is important when clipping into bulky master points on anchors, especially when they are made of thick Mar 1, 2023 · The design of the carabiner is also essential when pairing it with a GriGri. Those Black Diamond screw-lock HMS carabiners will work, but you will be cross loading them. Jan 28, 2023 · The Best Overall Carabiner: Petzl Attache . Jun 2, 2014 · HMS Strike Slider [one_half] [/one_half] [one_half_last] Best Use: Belay carabiner, or anchor ‘biner. HMS carabiners are meant to be loaded at the spine and nowhere else, whereas oval carabiners are intended to be loaded at the This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. Hi everyone, pretty new to climbing and am looking for suggestions on small lockable carabiners. I'm liking the look of "EDELRID HMS Bulletproof Locking Carabiner". New one has no i-beam profile at the top of the carabiner so that it is less likely to create sharp edges when the rope wears out the material. Updated: 31 I'm trying to find some good triangular carabiners for suspension. The device will most likely still lock properly, but if it can’t While any HMS/pear-shaped locker will work perfectly fine for belaying, six of the locking carabiners tested in this review are designed specifically for that purpose, and include features designed to increase performance while belaying. g. It's heavy, but that's not a big deal for sport and gym climbing. The Jake is equipped with a side-swing gate that provides sizable clearance and ease of use; this combined with the spacious basket make it ideal as a master-point Dec 4, 2020 · Pear-shaped carabiners have a small runner’s end, a large gate-opening, and a very wide, gently rounded rope basket best suited for accommodating multiple items or bulkier gear. The spine on the widest part of the carabiner sticks out a little bit so that the GRIGRI cannot slide over it. For Revo, idk. Congratulations on the new rig! I strongly recommend, though, that you consider getting oval non-locking carabiners instead. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. I’ll see if I can find the link. Rappeling is coming down from the top of a wall. Depends on the type of top rope anchor. It's extremely obvious when the carabiner isn't configured correctly. I need advice on the ideal carabiner(s) that will work in conjunction with my hitch climber and rope wrench. If the former, I would go with stuff for new climbers like: 1) One of those "get outside kits" with a harness, ATC, locking carabiner, and chalk bag , 2) chalk, 3) helmet, 4) quickdraws, 5) beginner climbing shoes. Again, you can rappel with just a couple of carabiners on their own but most people will use the same belay device to rappel down a rope. Other Related Information Jun 14, 2023 · That’s because an HMS carabiner has a large basket, perfect for a munter hitch or tethering with a clove hitch. Petzl calls out HMS carabiners as being bad ideas because they tend to crossload with Grigris. What carabiners are recommended that are lightweight, durable, have a locking mechanism, and slide into the ropeman 1 nice and easy? Microtraction, locking HMS, sling, DMM Revolver with a tiblock, a tri locking directional HMS, a screwgate with a hollow block, and a 60cm alpine draw for a picket if I use Jul2 indoors and outdoors on sport single pitch climbs. I clip it on one of the tabs up by my left shoulder but I don’t put anything on it. The Twin-Gate system is safer, faster and stronger than any other locking system. Carabiners with round stock also seem to work better. clove hitch and belay device) For non-locking carabiners, it doesnt matter nearly as much because there is no gate. HMS: Petzl Williams Ball lock, big, smooth, safe locking system when using with an HMS General large biner; Petzl Attache; Light, small, holds enough Pulley/tibloc compatible: Petzl Sm'd; smallest, lightest compatible one. ) 1 small snapgate carabiner - you need to rack your screw on I dont have a pilot but I use an edelrid Jul on a regular basis. Keylock closure reduces snagging and hot forged body increases the strength to weight ratio. It is possible (unlikely, but still possible) that in some situations, usually on slabby terrain, that the grigri can jam against the rock face when weighted preventing it from camming and stopping a fall. The device is designed to work best with the gridlock carabiner however a RockLock from BD might work fine or even the mammut smart belay carabiner. Not going to look through all these comments but by far the simplest technique to add friction and make holding power and lowering easier is to add another locking hms carabiner of the same size to her belay rig. If you have two carabiners of similar weight but different size, I'd go with the larger ones because they're going to be much easier to manipulate (especially with gloves on). A Special Access Program (SAP) is a platform or project that has extremely controlled access. Petzl makes some good ones that’ll pair well with it. If you set them opposite each other and leave the screw gate unlocked if leading then it's a great Mar 31, 2025 · Don't buy a Hms Carabiner in Australia before reading our rankings | BestProductsAustralia. Any advice would be much appreciated. The Twin-Gate system is safer, faster and stronger than any other locking It works just fine, but when using two ropes because of the rock lock's asymetric shape, when using two ropes is sometimes wants to rotate around on the carabiner (because the load on the ropes wants to pull both ropes close to the spine of the biner) the solution would be to use a very symetric HMS biner. The only ones which can be recommended at the moment in non-redundant applications are the Petzl Ball-Lock and the DMM Belay Master. Grivel Plume HMS K3GH carabiner. Screwgate or locksafe locksafe (Triple action carabiner) for glacier travel, when $70 Childs play, he needs this $3,970 carabiner. Metolius Ultralight Master Cam. The thumb loop is an intuitive way to unlock the device, but it requires a new technique for feeding slack. Jan 8, 2019 · At 2. What are HMS carabiners? HMS is the abbreviation of the German term “ Halbmastwurfsicherung ”, better known as half clove hitch belay or Munter hitch. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. So it seems the same areas. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. Super easy to use autolocking mechanic, pretty light, and good size and shape. That said, I personally just use oval lockers for TRS. Having a hell of a time finding a current reccomendation that is still being… May 16, 2023 · As a funny side note I got inspired to write this after reading the outdoorgearlab review of the miniwire. Ice climbing; Grivel Sigma K8G Twin gate. Five is right out. Nov 1, 2023 · A larger HMS locking carabiner is helpful if you need to clip other things to it. Right now I'm researching what carabiners to get - at the moment I'm just looking to get a couple for water bottles and a flip line, but would like for all the carabiners I own to be ones I can put into any use at any time (such as into a z-drag system, without being concerned about checking strength ratings). IMO if you like multipitch and don't want to be screwing around wasting time, the Mammut Smart Carabiner is the best belay biner out there. Petzl also sells a pretty lightweight screwgate HMS carabiner that you can put on the back of your harness and ignore. Consider that some full sized carabiners are as light as their miniature counterparts. It's the one I use with it anyways. But as of two months ago I switched to belaying from a steel locker. Apr 29, 2024 · Usually, however, HMS carabiners are behemoths, adding weight and clutter on multi-pitch climbs. Its unique Rocklock Twistlock Carbiner Jan 9, 2019 · We tested four light and compact lockers for this review, and found that we enjoyed using the DMM Phantom Screwgate far more than any of the others. The attache seems to be comparable to the vapor lock in weight, but with a 2mm larger gate difference. I tried using it with the Grigri and it could usually clip but would get stuck unclipping. Finally the D lockers covers any other secure connection you might need. Edelrid Giga Jul: Compatibility 3 We recommend using an HMS Strike FG or HMS Strike Slider FG karabiner. HMS carabiners can also be used to belay with a Munter Hitch , which does not require a belay device (if you happen to drop your belay device on a multi-pitch climb). A small offset D carabiner like the Black Diamond Positron won’t work as well because it might not be able to rotate given its geometry. If you're setting up a sport climb for top roping where the bolts and anchors are on the vertical face and you can visually inspect the anchor at any time, then it's fine to use non-locking carabiners. To actually be helpful I’m guessing he wants a locking carabiner here’s a black one for around $9 link. Apr 27, 2021 · The Mega Jul is a little finicky — it behaves best with certain carabiners (beefy HMS belay ‘biners work best), and it takes some getting used to. Edelrid does, in fact, claim that their May 20, 2020 · Best Carabiner For GriGri Plus / Best Carabiner For GriGri 2. These tend to have a wide gate opening and are easy to attach to belay devices and ropes. May 24, 2023 · Yeah, I have that carabiner. Not much more we can say that we didn’t say above in the #2 Most Wanted area. The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof is our favorite for belaying with an ATC-style device, or rappelling. However, there's one type of gear where this is less of an issue, being helmets. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (wh I just bought the Mammut Smart HMS Carabiner to use with my GriGri and I love it. If the latter, maybe 1) local guidebook (if applicable), 2) chalk, 3) atc guide, 4) locking carabiners, 5) maybe a rope? r/SpecialAccess is a community devoted to uncovering the hardware produced by Special Access Programs of the last 50 years. The one you linked is not. Four shalt thou not use, neither use thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. i was using short hand what you need a screwgate carabiner an HMS is a type of screwgate. In my opinion best of geometric assisted devices on the market right now. The Nano 22 is hands down one of the best racking carabiners in terms of functionality, price, and weight for a trad or alpine climber. Top Pick: Petzl Attache; Best Anti-Crossloading: DMM Rhino; Best Auto-Locking: Edelrid HMS Strike Slider; Best Value: Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate; Best Lightweight: Edelrid Pure We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The Best Carabiner on a Budget: Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate . This technique can be used with a special "pear-shaped" HMS locking carabiner, or any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope. Same story on rappels Jun 13, 2011 · In reply to ashley1_scott: No, hms biners are wide at the top for taking multiple clove hitches or having more space for the running rope when belaying with a normal device. Hard to use with one hand. In these situations if the Proper hand placement and carabiner selection. My partners has the same and they were equally as An update: I played with the setup at length, and upon further review, it's ridiculously easy to get the handle clipped. The smaller inner gate keeps your keys in place, with the larger locking gate making it harder for your carabiner to come unclipped or get stolen. I've used the Mammut Smart for about 3 years now, and love it. Knife, Whistle, 2 HMS carabiner, 4 meter webbing with sewn end loops, a pulley, 2 prussiks, earplugs. Lightweight screws: Climbing technology Aerial Pro SG, light, but not too small. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. They are a very popular shape with climbers. I also usually have one or two snacks in there. This sub is for tool enthusiasts worldwide to talk about tools, professionals and hobbyists alike. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Important Specs; 4. There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary. Metolius Captive Quickdraw. Our favorite belay carabiners are the DMM Rhino and the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG, although any carabiner designed for Oct 25, 2023 · Beware of pear-shaped carabiners, which in this application have a tendency to rotate and often become poorly positioned. With a gri gri the carabiner doesn't even touch the rope, its simply a connector between harness and gri gri. The document has moved here. CERTIFICATIONS Finally, most carabiners will also have the CE certification and/or UIAA certification stamped near the strength ratings. I have a few non-locking climbing carabiners (23kN), and they are a bit smaller than the locking HMS carabiners I currently use. May 20, 2022 · An HMS carabiner is the most common belay carabiner because of its wide, pear-like shape. The 12 locking carabiners we tested Table of Contents. We got one in a strong metallic red colour. Three shall be the number thou shalt use, and the number of the carabiners shall be three. We typically carry three or four of these size lockers per person on a multi-pitch climb, using them for attaching to anchor bolts, at the end of a personal anchor device, and as the second locker for an ATC guide or Reverso style auto-locking They are simpler, lighter and don’t freeze up or get blocked with dirt/snow/ice as easily. The Best Carabiner for EDC: Heroclip . When falling, the issue appeared approx 1/20 - 1/40 times. The Smart has an interesting failure mode: it wears a groove in an aluminum biner -- which is fine, all biners wear -- but then in certain circumstances, when lowering and using a 9. They come in different shapes and sizes, but for GriGri, the D-shaped carabiner is the best one. Good for freaking out new partners Agreed. For ATC, a smooth oval one is best. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints. Note: This was the first locking HMS carabiner to freely rotate in a belay device or anchor system. Nov 9, 2023 · The #2 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Rocklock (screwgate). An HMS carabiner is a crab which you use for belaying it is the slightly larger one than a normal screwgate carabiner here is the wiki article. Different carabiners for different purposes. The device will most likely still lock properly, but if it can’t The Rhino is the best named carabiner on the list, in my opinion. A few points not already mentioned by others. I've just bought a Edelrid Megajul and in the instruction manual one of the pictures with big cross through it has a silhouette of a DMM Belaymaster… Oct 1, 2020 · The best shape for a belay carabiner is HMS or pear-shaped. Did happened to my partner, but more often to me. I want to buy a large HMS carabiner with enough space on it to easily fit at least 3 clove hitchs. Only the Petzl Attache has more, while the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG has the same amount. single HMS on the master point to attach yourself to (clove hitch from your rope attached to your harness) and either belay off your rope loop While the probability of being directly struck by a bullet is quite low, a caribiner is made of steel, afaik, and bullets are made from lead. HMS indicates that the carabiner is designed with a wide, more symmetrical top that works well with a Münter hitch. My old Smart HMS from Mammut wore down quite quikly so i was lloking for an alternative. Feb 19, 2021 · Same with the Edelrid Strike and that POS from Black Diamond, the Gridlock. The overall size of the biner was the largest on test coming in at 117mm x 78mm. Which carabiner do I use for a Grigri? When belaying with a Grigri, you can use many types of carabiners. You'll probably end up using a keychain on the carabiner anyway, because diameter of the carabiner will be larger than the holes on your keys. HMS carabiners are pear-shaped and have been specifically developed for a belaying technique using no additional devices, which is frequently found in alpine climbing. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri. 8mm rope The story: Picture is from a few months ago. bhwz kjcldpfp jsae vsqa qwf rjs omqmqhv axp bkct rreqaxb nahmf spibq yarf qpu tpxcu